Fixing bicycle breaking spoke problem once and for all

Normally bicycle spokes don't give any  problems. There are issues using common garden variety bikes like a donkey though. Handle bar basket and rear carrier mounted cargo back packer tourist bike types are ideal. The  wheels are thick stainless steel spokes and rims deigned for that sort of thing. Constant broken spoke frustrations often begin when rebuilding customizing wheels using parts from several wheels.  Parts are not interchange as might think. Although some times one wheel may fit another frame like a clove they are not entirely interchangeable either often the cause of constantly breaking spokes due to a variety of reasons.

One of the important part of interchanging wheels is the knowledge of wheel size. Overall wheel size is tire size. There are, skinny racing and commuter types to wide mountain tires. Tape measures tell you tires come in metric and imperial inches. Commuter bike wheels measure seven hundred millimeters ( seventy centimeters ) across ( just under three quarter meter ) with about twenty five millimeters wide expressed as seven hundred C. On the flip side of the tape is the imperial inches that measure old rare tires, twenty eight inches across, more common twenty seven a very common twenty six inch diameter with width readings ranging from a half inch to an three quarter wide.

Mountain bike tires range from a metric seven hundred C, twelve inches ( one foot for little ones ) twenty four, and twenty six inches across and an inch or two wide. You will find sizes are confirmed stamped on the side of the tire wall. In both metric and imperial markings gives the diameter and width of the tire. Tape measures will confirm the relative rim size. What looks like the same size tire at a glance fitting a seven hundred C tire onto a twenty six inch rim for example the metric tire will be far too small.

A metric wheel mounted in a frame depending on the original imperial inch wheel will give brake alignment issues either to high or to low problems. There is a lot of tolerance lei way between a seven hundred C and twenty six imperial inch inch wheel with rim and disc brakes that can be adjusted to accommodate pressing rim or the disc ( called a rotor ) properly.

The main cause of constant breaking spoke problem is an Improper line up between the rear wheel drop out stays is caused  a dished wheel fitted into a drop out designed for a  non dished wheel or vice versa . If you look at a wheel tire on or the rim head on you'll observe some wheels the gear cluster ( or drive ) side looks dished outwards a bit and the opposite side looks flat. In others both sides look flat. The dished wheel is a dish wheel while flat both sides is a symmetrical wheel, The difference will cause off set alignment problems between the rear wheel drop out stays and front forks.

The problem is compounded if making up a customized wheels from bits and pieces from  various wheel parts. Tape measures readings show many variations in hub widths that determines the gap across the from fork and rear wheel drop out gaps in various frames .

Observing the how many rear wheel sprockets of external multi sprocket back wheels there are gives you speed ratings that determines the gap across the drop out. Speed ratting is when we multiply the number of rear wheel sprockets by the number of front chain wheels on the crank. Five is a common racing bike wheel designed for bikes with double front chain wheel arrangements. Up to seven is exclusively mountain bikes designed either a double or triple front front chain wheel. The bike speed facture determines the number of sprockets that determines the length of the width of the hub which in turn determines the drop out width issue. The narrowest hub is a 10 speed  ( five rear wheel and two crank set sprockets  ) and the widest a twenty one  speed ( seven rear wheel and three crank sprockets.

Anybody who knows mathematics well will testify to the laws of mathematics we can multiply the front crank sprockets by the rear sprockets. We can divide any speed by the number of crank sprockets giving us the number of rear wheel sprockets. We can dived any speed by any rear wheel sprockets number giving us the number of front chain wheels sprockets. Eighteen speed divided by six rear wheel sprockets we ask our selves how many six's  go into eighteen. Three, six's are eighteen respectively. So taking into account of wheel size,  judging the number of sprockets on rear wheels we can judge the speed of the bike the wheel came from telling us the width of the drop out of the frame frame and vice versa. A typical tape measure will confirm the differences in the drop out gap of different speed frames.

There are other issues that will cause braking spokes. We can see from observing rear wheels the drive side either looks dished or flat looking ( symmetrical ) both sides. It is another issue that determines the width of the rear wheel drop out. The widest frame is a 21 speed dished gear cluster side and the  narrowest is a symmetrical ( both sides flat looking ) 10 speed.

Without any regards to fitting wheels subsisting is a potential risk of a miss match between the wheel and the frame. Symptoms include an improper alignment between the rear wheel drop out stay arms. In a case of a 21 speed wheel fitted to a 10 speed drop out the rear wheel will tend to be off set to close to one side millimeters away from rubbing the rear wheel stay arm to actually rubbing. With rim brakes rubbing on the rubbers ( and not fitting between the gap in disc brake bikes ) properly. For proper alignment in the frame the correct wheel is essential.

As a rule of thump knowing the speed of the frame any wheel with a match fit will fit properly between the drop out stay arms. If switching wheels round it is necessary make sure you know the width, ( a tape measure confirmation of the drop out width is always helpful to know ) knowing the symmetry of the wheel suitable. Looking at bike wheels tire side head on you will observe either the sprocket ( or a multi gear cluster side ) will appear dished in some and flat on both sides with other wheels. The dished wheels are dish symmetry and flat on both sides are expressed as symmetrical wheels.

Front wheel spokes are easier replace than the drive side of rear wheels. Spokes are threaded right behind the sprocket or cluster cluster which need to be removed. Different manufactures have different tool deigns for the job which require a different gear cluster removal tools.

Taking into account of the wheel size observing the spoke arrangement of the front wheel the same pattern as the rear. The number of spokes varies from forty spokes of cargo carrying capacity wheels thirty eight about minimum. Very common and not really meant for any cargo carrying capacity thirty six and 34.Counting the number of your spokes tells you the status of your wheel design.

Examine a wheel you will observe spokes are strung on angles crossing each other once, twice, three times and sometimes four. Racing bike spokes are known to be only once. Commuter bikes three times  times and cargo carrying capacity four times.

Turning you attention to the hub flange the spokes are mounted supporting the wheel on the axle there is a left and right hand side paten of wheels in the spoke arrangement. The spoke heads in the hub flange alternate in and out, Inwards for one side and out wards for the other side. It doesn't matter which is which with the in and out paten relative to the left and right sides the principle holds.

Taking measurements of the tire, dished or symmetrical, counting the number of spokes, the number of times they cross each other and the number of sprockets of the rear wheel into account tells the type of bike you have or trying to rebuild for the current frame type you intend to mount in. This is a vital  information you need to know if you are into rebuilding wheels. If you are practicing rebuilding wheels a tape measure can be an indispensable part of your tool kit. You can use the tape to find any spare spoke or spokes that will do the job.

Replacing a broken spoke on the gear cluster side of a rear wheel the old out dated screw on gear cluster needs the corresponding out dated tool too. For a single rear gear generally held on by a clip or needs a tool that fits two little dots impresses.

The out dated multi gear cluster bike has two lugs that fit in the slots in the gear cluster sprockets where the axial goes though. There is no need to remove the axel as you can fit the tool over it passing though a hole in the tool. The undo threading direction is the peddling forward direction. During the life of the wheel the peddling torque constantly tightened on the hub, so don't be suppressed if it is on so tight will never seem to be able to come off without the proper tool. Bicycle reaper shops have the tool resources and a vice.

The procedure to use the tool it is anchored in the jaws of a vice. When the wheel is removed it is place over it connecting into the lugs. There is lots of room the size of the for powerful grappling torque pulling the wheel round like holding onto a steering wheel.

Modem bike hub tools are a spline types like a slid on vehicle gearbox splines where the gear cluster held in place by the smallest sprocket. There is two sizes. It'll be very difficult to gage the size the tool required by eye with the wheel on. The wheel is best removed and measured by spare tools of the different sizes. You can take the wheel to a bike shop and try there if you have to fit one.

Once the first sprocket is loosened you can be unscrewed, the rest of the glister slides off the splined hub in one piece called a cassette. Alternatively the older you can get a way with a box spanner that fits in the smallest sprocket spline with out the need of a vice. An advantage you can use a ring spanner at the maximum leverage for tight ones. Once the gear cluster is removed the spoke can be replaced according the the spoke pattern the spoke head inwards for one side or the other.

To remove the wheel turn the bike upside down resting on the seat and handlebars. If a broken spoke behind the rear wheel gear cluster you will need to remove it. The rear wheel gear derailleur willstay on the bike when you remove the rear wheel. 

Set the gear lever so the chain is engaged with the smallest sprocket   

Undo the wheel nuts enough the wheel is only loose in the drop outs. Or if one of those quick release wheels undo the lever so that the wheel only lose. They can stay on the axel when you lift out the wheel so they don't get lost.

If your bike has rim brakes the brake pads will inevitably catch on the inflated wall of the tire preventing the wheel from coming out. Problem solved when you have to take the tire off to get at the spoke nipples in the rim. Deflate the tire vacuum flat. Vacuum flat the tire walls clears the break pads. 

Lifting the wheel up and  backwards with one hand clearing the chain from the gear cluster with the other you can lift out the wheel. The gear cluster remains in place.

The next step is removing the tire. 

Replacing a spoke on the gear cluster side after removing the gear cluster replace the tire-less wheel back into the drop out and finger tight the wheel nuts.

Take out the broken spoke threading the new one according the head pattern of the hub flange crossing the other spokes fitting the thread to the spoke hole in the rim threading the spoke nipple on to the thread of the new spoke.

Don't wrench tight the spoke nipple with the spoke tool. Leave sloppy. This is because if you do you will be pulling downward part of the rim creating a depression that creates an egg shape in the rim.

Rotate the wheel observing a side to side wobble between the brake pads. Side to side wobble indicates you will create an egg shape if you tighten the loose spoke. Top prevent this from happening move the wheel so the loose spoke is between the brake pads. Ignoring the loose spoke slightly loosen the 2 opposite side spoke nipples. The side to side wobble will attempt to straighten a bit.

You will find loosing the other 2 loose the loose spoke will feel tighter. Don't wrench tight. Only adjust at a maximum of quarter turn  Turn you attention back to the other 2 spokes adjusting them again. Alternate adjust between the 3 nipples till the rim runs true between the brakes rubbers.

All that needs to be done now is to remove the wheel and reassemble the tire. Don't inflate because the brake pads catching on the expanded tire wall will prevent you from fitting the wheel. Inflate once back in the bike.